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Thread: Hi Pro Communication Problem

  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nibbler View Post
    I just got a Serial HiPro. And i have the IOGEAR usb adapter on my XPsp3 notebook.
    Could someone please provide me with the handshake settings of they are using successfully with the HiPro.
    Bits pers second: 9600 ?
    Data bits: 8 ?
    Parity None : ?
    Stop bits: 1
    Flow Control : None

    Not sure if the FIFO buffers in advanced Com settings apply here ?
    As I had trouble with the Hi-pro connection (again), I scourged the net for info. (In the end it was the cable! Make sure to check the connections with a multimeter!!)

    The technical specifications of the Hi-Pro can be found here.
    Last edited by Markismus; 01-03-2017 at 12:59 PM.

  2. #22

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    I've never had to dig that deeply into the serial settings for my Hi-Pro (which I have used with a few computers now). Problems have always turned out to be related to drivers for the USB/serial converter.

    And do you need a null-modem cable? I do, with the converter I'm using (an long-obsolete Belkin).
    250 500 1K 1.5K 2K 3K 4K 6K 8K Costco KS7
    R 25 50 60 60 60 50 50 50 65 SRT: 55dB WRS: 84% @85dB
    L 30 60 60 60 60 55 60 60 70 SRT: 60dB WRS: 88% @90dB

  3. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by corona View Post
    And do you need a null-modem cable? I do, with the converter I'm using (an long-obsolete Belkin).

    The information on the web points in all directions.
    Yes, you need a null modem cable, but unfortunately, there are a lot of them

    I. NULL MODEM CABLES

    I started with a guide for serial Hi-pro's on Windows 7:


    According to this nice wiki about null modem cables this is a null modem cable with loop back handshaking (,albeit with a mistake in the picture--the text is correct.) I soldered the arrowed connections myself, because the one that I was supplied with---and worked well for a year--- was a null modem cable without handshaking.

    So apart from the obvious times the system was out-of-order, both worked for me with a connection from the Hi-Pro directly to the COM header on my PC motherboard. I've tested the loop back handshaking null modem cable connected to a Serial2USB device with a CH341 chip inside and it worked.

    Depending on the connection your computer has to the Hi-Pro it seems that you have 4 (FOUR!) possibilities to try out:


    Obviously you only have to de-/solder the loop back connections to switch between without handshaking and loop back: Both have 3 wires running from one DB9 connector to the other. The Partial and Full handshaking both have 7(!) wires running through the cable.

    II. So what do you need?
    As I was fixing a system that worked before and I was supplied with a cable that had three wires, I only tried the Partial handshaking. Do you need more? Looking at the wiki for serial ports:
    Bit rates commonly supported include 75, 110, 300, 1200, 2400, 4800, 9600, 19200, 38400, 57600 and 115200 bit/s.
    Comparing this to the technical specifications that state the baud rate as
    1200 (default), 2400, 4800, 9600 or 19200 baud
    , the Hi-Pro really has no high speed connection. So it is unlikely that the 7-wires connection from the Partial and Full handshaking is needed. Safest bet is Partial handshaking since it also allows for DTE/DCE compatibility.

    However, for compatibility issues, especially those arising from USB2serial (USB2DB9) I would stop fidgeting with those settings and rather look at all four null modem cable options. (Mine only cost around 3€ and it works nicely with Partial handshaking.)
    Last edited by Markismus; 01-04-2017 at 04:30 AM.

  4. #24

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    I just went into an electronics parts store and bought a null-modem cable that was in a plastic bag, hanging on the wall (and was the only kind they had).
    250 500 1K 1.5K 2K 3K 4K 6K 8K Costco KS7
    R 25 50 60 60 60 50 50 50 65 SRT: 55dB WRS: 84% @85dB
    L 30 60 60 60 60 55 60 60 70 SRT: 60dB WRS: 88% @90dB

  5. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by corona View Post
    I just went into an electronics parts store and bought a null-modem cable that was in a plastic bag, hanging on the wall (and was the only kind they had).



    You can check with a multimeter or a battery-wire-light or just screwing it open what pins connect to what.

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